Tahitian pearls are prized for their natural dark colors, colorful array of overtones like peacock, green and silver, their touchable, bright luster, and large sizes. When buying, focus on luster first, then overtone, surface quality,and size to ensure long-term beauty and value.
— Ashley McNamara, Pure Pearls
Dark, colorful and exotic, Tahitian pearls are known as the first naturally colored black pearl in existence, and they've been wowing pearl lovers world-over for decades.
Using my 20 years of experience specializing in pearls, I've created the Tahitian Pearl Buying Guidewhich will provide you with everything you could want to know about these glamorous pearls. Using GIA's all-important pearl value factors, such as luster, size, surface quality and color to teach you what to look for when buying Tahitian peals, we'll also cover topics like their history and origins, legends and cultivation methods. As always, enjoy Pure's stunning real-life pearl pictures and visual aids so when you begin shopping for Tahitian pearl jewelry you'll know exactly what to look for.
Use the Table of Contents below to skip to the parts of the article that interest you the most, or read the entire article and learn how to buy Tahitian pearls like a professional.
| Quality Factor | What To Look For | Why It Matters |
| Luster | Bright, sharp reflections | Strongest indicator of beauty and value |
| Surface Quality | Clean with minimal blemishes | Affects durability and appearance |
| Color / Overtone | Dark body color with green, blue, or peacock overtone | Rarer overtones increase desirability |
| Size | Typically 8–14mm and up | Larger sizes are more valuable |
| Shape | Round to near-round preferred, baroques are unique | Perfectly round pearls command higher prices |
| Nacre Thickness | Thick, well-layered, 0.4mm minimum thickness | Ensures long-term wear and durability |
Wild black pearls from French Polynesia are a truly rare gem; so rare, that the pearls themselves were pretty much unheard of until the practice of pearl cultivation came to the islands in the late 1960s and 70s.
Tahitian pearls are actually not the famous “black pearls” of antiquity – that distinction belongs to the pearls from the Gulf of Mexico and the waters around the Caribbean Islands. During the Spanish conquest of South America and the southern parts of the United States, the early colonists realized that the warm coastal waters in the Gulf were home to hundreds of thousands of pearl oysters, some of which held rare black pearls, which were sent back to Spain to become part of the Spanish Crown Jewels, with many necklaces, pendants and earrings surviving to this day.
Tahitian pearls are different: these pearls were almost entirely unknown during that time period, except for the island natives who treasured them. Mostly, it was the colorful and iridscent mother of pearl shell material that the Polynesian islanders wore as jewelry because it was easier to harvest. The rare, whole Tahitian pearls were prized by chieftains, elders and other esteemed persons within the tribal clans.Tahitian pearls had a religious significance on the islands, as well as some interesting legendary tales that were woven around the origin of these exotic and colorful gems.
The most prolific and popular Polynesian legend tell of Oro, the god of war (in other tellings, he is the god of peace and fertility). In love with the beautiful princess of Bora Bora, he descended to the island on a rainbow of light to give her the most precious treasure the heavens had to offer: Poe Rava, the colorful black Tahitian pearl.
My absolute favorite legend speaks of the full Moon coming down from the starry sky to bathe in the Ocean. Attracted by the heavenly light, the Te Ufi – Tahitian pearl oysters – came to the sea’s surface and were coated with shimmering dew: bright and iridescent hues of rose, green, gold, blue and violet.
The Polynesian natives primarily prized the black mother-of-pearl lining the interior of the Pinctada margaritifera oyster shell. The iridescent shells were used extensively in jewelry and other decorations, but whole, actual pearls were exceedingly rare until the modern practice of pearl cultivation arrived in the twentieth century with a few bold visionary individuals adapting Japanese grafting methods to produce the famous black pearl we adore today, primarily among them Salvadore Assael, who invested heavily in promoting them, and Koko Chasee partnered with the Rosenthal Brothers who pioneered the first major farming operation in the islands during the 1960s.
Tahitian pearls are not farmed on the island of Tahiti.
They are farmed throughout the atolls and tropical lagoons of the island chain that comprise French Polynesia. The biggest farm is owned and operated by Robert Wan. Perles de Tahiti is located on Mangareva Island, located about 500 miles SW of Tahiti.
The tropical waters of the South Pacific Ocean are ideal for culturing large pearls. The warmer temperatures increase the metabolism of the Pinctada margaritifera oyster, and encourages a faster rate of crystalline nacre deposition.
Combined with the longer-than-average growth times for each pearl, this results in pearls with very thick nacre and beautiful luster and color.
Here's a few Tahitian pearl farming facts for pearl masters to know:
The harvested pearls are shipped to the main island of Tahiti, where they are x-rayed by the Pearl Ministry to measure nacre thickness, which by law must be a minimum of 0.8mm thick in order to qualify for legal export.
Tahitian pearl nacre thickness usually exceeds that easily – the average crystal depth for Tahitian pearls is 2.0-4.0mm – however it is an extra layer of security that ensures only the finest pearls are allowed onto the world’s jewelry market.
👉Learn More: Visit A Pearl Farm
Cultured Tahitian pearls come in a wide variety of shapes to suit every taste. From perfectly round classic pearls, to funky and artistically circled baroque pearls, Tahitian pearls offer a striking array of "personalities" to enjoy.
Round Tahitian pearls cost more because they are the least common outcome of the culturing process and require near-perfect conditions to form evenly on all sides. Any imbalance during growth can result in irregular shapes, which is why truly round pearls represent only a small fraction of each harvest and are graded at a premium. Near-round and button-shape pearls offer a similar classic appearance at a slightly more accessible price.
Baroque Tahitian pearls, on the other hand, often offer better value because their unique shapes do not diminish luster or color, yet they are priced more accessibly. Baroque and circled pearls showcase organic curves, rings, and textures that highlight the pearl’s individuality. These less uniform shapes are often chosen for their character and artistic appeal, making shape a personal choice that balances style, rarity, and value rather than a strict measure of quality. For buyers who prioritize size, overtone, and character over perfect symmetry, baroque shapes can deliver exceptional beauty and individuality at a lower cost.
Some of the most familiar shapes for Tahitian pearls include perfect rounds through unique baroque pearls.
Other pearl shapes are available, but they are considered “collector’s items”. As with all other pearl types, the quest to produce fine, perfectly round shapes is paramount. Other rare and unique shapes include free-form baroque Tahitian pearls and keshi pearls.
Pictured here are silver-white free-form baroque Tahitian pearls – a very rare strand.
Tahitian pearls are known as a naturally-colored “Black” pearl, but the truth is these pearls much more often present themselves in shades of pale dove grey to medium and dark charcoal greys.
Tahitian pearl colors can be separated out into two parts:
These dark primary body colors are a perfect base for some of the more colorful overtones (secondary colors) that Tahitian pearls are famous for. The more saturated and intense the overtones are, the more valuable the pearl can be, especially in the most popular hues. Peacock Tahitian pearls are the most famous and most popular, but green, blue and rose are also very attractive choices.
A rainbow of color Tahitian pearls display some of the most varied overtones of all pearl types.
Body colors, also known as primary or base colors, range from very pale silvery-white to near jet black, which is very rare. The average body color for Tahitian pearls is going to range in the charcoal grey range. The chart below shows the main variants of body colors for Tahitians.
Overtone is the iridescent color that appears over the body color and creates the pearl’s visual depth and iridescence. In high-quality Tahitian pearls, overtone is what gives the pearl life, dimension, and value. A pearl with a vivid overtone will appear brighter and more complex than a darker pearl with dull or weak coloration.
There are hundreds of body color and overtone combinations when it comes to Tahitian pearls – this is just a small list. The intensity and saturation of each body color and overtone varies from pearl to pearl (which is where great matching and a good eye for color come into play).
Pearls with pronounced iridescence and saturated colors are considered more valuable, all other factors like luster, shape, surface quality and size being equal.
Pro-Tip: Overtone intensity and clarity matter more than how dark the pearl appears. A medium-dark Tahitian pearl with a bright, saturated overtone will almost always look more beautiful and valuable than a very dark pearl with flat or muddy color.
The Most Popular and Famous Tahitian Pearl Overtones are:
The photo above features one of my favorite, most colorful lots of Tahitian drops I’d ever seen at the time … these pearls sparked my love affair with Tahitians, which is still going strong two decades later.
👉Learn More: The Ultimate Guide to Pearl Colors
The Tahitian pearl oyster, Pinctada margaritifera, is one of the largest of the pearl-bearing oysters, and can grow up to 1-foot in diameter at maturity. This allows the oyster to be nucleated with larger mother of pearl beads, producing larger than average sized pearls. Pearl types like Akoya or Freshwater pearls - which is what most pearl jewelry buyers are familiar with - cannot even come close to matching the size ranges of Tahitian pearls.
The average size range for Tahitians is 8.0-9.0mm through 15.0-16.0mm, with 9.0-10.0mm through 12.0-13.0mm sizes being the most popular pearl sizes to buy.
Because larger Tahitian pearls take longer to form and require exceptional growing conditions, size quickly becomes a key driver of rarity and price. As pearl diameters increase, yields drop sharply, making pearls at the upper end of the size range far less common than their smaller counterparts. When two Tahitian pearls share the same luster, surface quality, color, and shape, the larger pearl will always be more valuable. This is why size is best understood as a multiplier of value rather than a standalone factor, rewarding patience, healthy oysters, and careful cultivation.
Notice that each pearl millimeter size increase leads to a 20-25% larger pearl.So this means the 10.0-11.0mm Tahitian will be 50% larger than an 8.0-9.0mm pearl.
The vast majority of Tahitian pearl necklaces (round and baroque styles) are what we call “Graduated” strands.
These strands will feature pearls graduating from smaller pearls near the clasp, gradually increasing to a nice larger center section.
On average, you’ll see ranges spanning 2.0-2.5mm or so. Measurements will be described as 9.0-11.5mm, or 10.0-12.0mm and so on.
This colorful Tahitian Drop Necklace features a fairly common graduation rate from 8.7-11.0mm
A “Non-Graduated” Necklace will feature pearls with no more than 1.0mm graduation rate from the smallest to largest pearls – so the layout would read 9.0-10.0mm, for example.
“Non-Graduated” Tahitian pearl necklaces are harder to create, as the farm will have more restrictions on the pearls it can work with when matching and building a layout, so these necklaces will be more expensive than traditionally “Graduated” strands.
👉Learn More: The Ultimate Guide to Pearl Sizes
Pure Pearls uses the ‘A-AAAA’ Grading Scale for all Tahitian pearl jewelry. On the A-AAAA Scale, ‘A’ represents the lowest, commercial grades, and ‘AAAA’ represents the Tahitian pearl quality available.
The A-AAAA Grading Scale converts easily from the A-D Grading Scale used on the pearl farms in French Polynesia, and evaluates the 7 major pearl attributes as stated by GIA. These are:
Luster is the single most important factor when evaluating Tahitian pearls and should always be your first priority. High-quality Tahitian pearls show bright, sharp reflections that give the pearl depth and a lively appearance, while low-luster pearls can look flat or chalky, even if they are large or dark in color. In pearl grading, luster carries more weight than size, shape, or even color because it directly reflects nacre quality and how the pearl will look when worn.
Tahitian pearl surface quality is the second most important quality factor, and is closely tied to both appearance and durability. Minor blemishes such as small spots or light texture are normal and acceptable, especially on larger Tahitian pearls, but deep pits, heavy spotting, or cracks are considered deal-breakers. Pearls with cleaner surfaces not only look more refined but also hold up better to regular wear. This makes pearls clean surfaces a smarter choice for everyday jewelry like earrings, bracelets, and necklaces.
Together, luster and surface quality should form the foundation of any Tahitian pearl buying guide and grading analysis. Focusing on these two factors helps ensure you learn how to choose Tahitian pearls that are both beautiful and long-lasting. The chart below details each of the main Tahitian pearl grading benchmarks from AAAA quality (the highest) down to A quality (commercial grade), detailing exactly what you should be looking for in terms of luster and surface quality for each grade:
Pure Pearls has a long-standing “AAA Quality Minimum” policy when it comes to offering Tahitian pearl earrings, pendants and rings. That way, you’ll always be guaranteed to receive the finest pearls of each annual harvest.
👉Learn More: The Expert's Guide to Tahitian Pearl Grading
The answer to this question lies within a balance of beauty and budget.
Both our AAA Quality and AAAA Quality Tahitian pearls will feature:
Here are some real-life examples of our Tahitian Pearl Necklaces that are regularly offered here at Pure:
Every single Tahitian pearl necklace featured on Pure is a unique, one of a kind design. We have a continually curated collection selected by Ashley; Tahitian layouts are selected for their eye-catching colors, intense luster or playful pearl arrangements, so there is something for everyone, and at a variety of price points from $1,000 to $10,000.
Remember that each and every cultured Tahitian pearl is the result of a biological process. So these little gems will never be totally, completely, flawlessly perfect.
The goal when shopping for a Tahitian pearl necklace is not to find perfectly featureless beads, but gems with character and personality that will become yours and yours alone. My standing recommendation is to always look to find pearl luster and colors that you can fall in love with first, then consider surface quality.
Pearls with bright, reflective luster and clean surfaces consistently command higher prices because they look better when worn and hold their beauty over time. Size and rarity amplify value, but only when these core quality factors are already strong.
This is why two Tahitian pearl necklaces of the same size can be priced so differently. A larger Tahitian strand with dull luster or heavy blemishes may be far less valuable than a slightly smaller pearl with exceptional shine, clean surface, and vivid overtone. When comparing options, it’s important to look past “cheap black pearls” and focus on overall quality, as lower prices often reflect compromises in luster, surface, or durability. True value in Tahitian pearls comes from balanced grading and long-term wearability, not from size or darkness alone.
If you'd like help finding the perfect Tahitian pearl necklace, feel free to Contact Us anytime - our pearl experts are always happy to help.
Beautiful Tahitian pearl jewelry designs span styles from simple classics like a pair of stud earrings, to more elaborate designs sparkling with diamonds and gemstones. Every design is made by hand, to order here in our Los Angeles, CA workshop.
Choosing the right Tahitian pearl jewelry comes down to how and where you plan to wear it, as well as what feels most natural to your personal style. Stud earrings and pendants are popular for everyday wear because they’re easy, versatile, and let the pearl’s color and luster take center stage without feeling overstated, while necklaces and statement designs offer more presence and visual impact for special occasions.
Skin tone also plays a role. Cooler skin tones often pair beautifully with silver, blue, or green overtones, while warmer tones tend to complement peacock, charcoal, and aubergine hues. Focusing on comfort, wearability, and color harmony helps ensure your Tahitian pearl jewelry feels intentional and becomes a piece you reach for often.
Fine Tahitian pearl jewelry should all be matched to near-perfection with very little to slight variation in size, shape, body color and overtone (multi-color layouts are excepted here), luster and surface quality, and our specialists have a keen eye for ensuring that every Tahitian purchase is assembled to to maximize beauty and value.Pure Pearls has assembled a stunning collection of Tahitian pearls to suit every taste and budget. Our Tahitian pearl buying guide features some of our most popular and beloved jewelry styles, from necklaces to earrings, pendants and bracelets below.
Most Tahitian pearl necklaces will knot out to 18-inches including the clasp, but we can build custom layouts and alter existing designs easily (in fact, it’s one of my favorite parts of the job).
Necklaces and bracelets are individually double-knotted between each pearl using fine matching silk thread, and we finish all of our strands with matching 14K Gold clasps and 14K french wire-wrapping to ensure the ends withstand daily handling.
True Round Tahitian Pearl Necklace
The “classic” Tahitian pearl necklace. The 18-Inch princess length Tahitian pearl necklace features round and colorful pearls in a well-matched tonal layout. A round Tahitian pearl necklace is ideal for special occasions, corporate events and daily wear.
The true round necklaces range from $4,500-$30,000 or more depending on size, surface quality, color and luster.
The 18-inch princess length necklace should come to rest about 1.5 to 2-inches below the hollow of the throat.
Drop-Shaped Tahitian Pearl Necklaces
Drop-shaped Tahitian pearl necklaces are an enduring favorite for pearl lovers the world over. Drop Tahitian necklaces are perfect for daily wear and special events alike.
These pearls will feature a well-matched layout of smooth tear-drop and oval-ish shapes with minimal circling and small tips at the ends of the pearls. Prices range from $1500 - $5000
Baroque and Circled Baroque Tahitian Pearl Necklaces
Circled baroque Tahitian pearl necklaces are more popular than you'd imagine. These strands feature slightly to heavily circled pearls, usually with very saturated overtone colors like green, peacock and blue. The colors tend to get concentrated in the circles, and you can expect to see pearl strands that are really colorful. Baroque and circled baroque pearl necklaces are the best Tahitians for everyday wear.
Prices range from $1200 to $5000
To learn more about which pearl length is right for you visit: Pure Pearl’s Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Perfect Pearl Necklace. This helpful guide features photos of every classic pearl necklace length you can imagine, and a primer on how to properly measure pearl necklaces and bracelets.
Tahitian Pearl Stud Earrings
THE classic pearl stud earring, but with a dramatic twist. The Tahitian pearl stud earring is both elegant and fanciful, perfect for daytime and special occasions, and easily is our most popular choice for buyers looking for the best Tahitian pearl value. Our most popular sizes range 9.0-10.0mm (pictured here) to 11.0-12.0mm.
Classic Tahitian Pearl Dangle Earring
The classic Tahitian pearl dangle earring is a timeless and enduring favorite for those looking for a modern pearl earring without too much glitz.
These dangles are a modern and elegant choice for women of all ages. Sizes range from smaller 8.0-9.0mm up through 14.0-15.0mm pearls.
Tahitian Pearl And Diamond Earrings
When buying Tahitian pearl and diamond earrings, focus on balance and restraint. The diamonds should enhance the pearl’s natural color and luster, not overpower it.
Look for high-luster Tahitian pearls with clean surfaces, paired with small, well-matched diamonds set in white gold or platinum to keep the look crisp and modern. For everyday wear, subtle diamond accents work best, letting the pearl remain the focal point while adding just enough sparkle for refinement.
Tahitian Pearl Solitaire Pendants
The simple and chic Tahitian pearl solitaire pendant will never go out of style.
Bigger is better when it comes to this minimalist pendant: larger pearls balance well against the body and expanse of upper chest, so don't be afraid to size up. Our most popular sizes range 9.0-10.0mm (pictured here) to 11.0-12.0mm.
Tahitian Pearl & Diamond Pendants
Introducing the graceful and modern Tahitian pearl and diamond bezel pendant. The diamonds add a subtle yet sparkling touch of luxury.
The 0.05ct SI1-GH Quality diamond accents are dainty enough to be worn every day without being overwhelming.
Tahitian Pearl & Leather Neckpieces
Modern, versatile, and effortlessly bold, our Tahitian pearl on leather necklaces are a natural fit for men and women alike.
The clean, minimal design lets the pearl take center stage, making these necklaces easy to wear with everything from casual outfits to tailored layers.
True Round Tahitian Pearl Bracelets
Colorful and naturally lustrous, round Tahitian pearl bracelets have an easy elegance that fits right into a modern jewelry wardrobe. These pearls feel elegant, but never flashy.
The uniform shape gives the bracelet a smooth, comfortable look on the wrist, letting the pearls speak for themselves. It’s the kind of piece that works just as well with everyday outfits as it does for more dressed-up moments, without feeling overdone.
Baroque Tahitian Pearl Bracelets
Baroque Tahitian pearl bracelets offer a more relaxed, expressive take on pearl jewelry. Each pearl has its own shape and personality, which gives the bracelet a natural, organic feel rather than a perfectly uniform look.
Tahitian pearls work especially well in baroque forms because their dark colors and shifting overtones highlight every curve and surface variation. The result is a bracelet that feels artistic and individual, easy to wear, and quietly distinctive.
Tahitian Pearl on Leather Bracelets
Baroque Tahitian pearl bracelets offer a more relaxed, expressive take on pearl jewelry. Each pearl has its own shape and personality, which gives the bracelet a natural, organic feel rather than a perfectly uniform look.
Tahitian pearls work especially well in baroque forms because their dark colors and shifting overtones highlight every curve and surface variation. The result is a bracelet that feels artistic and individual, easy to wear, and quietly distinctive.
Questions about selecting the right Tahitian pearl earring, pendant and even ring sizes? Click below to read our guide to choosing the perfect pearl sizes.
Featured inside are TONS of photos, tips and charts to help you understand how these pearls measure up, and which Tahitian pearl size is perfect for you.
👉Learn More: The Ultimate Guide to Pearl Sizes
Smart buying starts with focusing on what actually makes a Tahitian pearl beautiful and lasting.
Choosing Tahitian pearls should feel exciting, not overwhelming. My Tahitian Pearl Buying Guide is designed to give you a clear understanding of what really matters when it comes to buying the Tahitian pearls of your tropical dreams. From luster and surface quality to color, overtone, and shape, knowing how these factors work together makes it easier to spot true quality and avoid common pitfalls. Tahitian pearls are naturally distinctive, and a little knowledge goes a long way toward finding pieces you’ll enjoy wearing for years.
At Pure Pearls, we believe transparency and education are just as important as beauty. Every Tahitian pearl we offer is carefully selected and accurately described, so you know exactly what you’re getting. Whether you’re buying your first piece or adding to a growing collection, we hope this guide helps you choose Tahitian pearls with confidence and enjoy them for their individuality, character, and enduring appeal.
Yes. Tahitian pearls are genuine saltwater cultured pearls grown in black-lip oysters in the lagoons of French Polynesia. They form the same way as other real pearls, with time and natural nacre buildup around an inserted nucleus.
Cultured using traditional pearl-farming methods developed in Japan
These pearls are not imitation, glass-filled, or synthetic
No. Real Tahitian pearls are naturally dark and do not require dyeing to achieve their color. Their body colors range from light silver-gray to deep charcoal, with colorful overtones creating their signature look.
No artificial color treatments are used
Overtone adds green, blue, peacock, or aubergine hues
Luster should be your top priority because it has the greatest impact on how beautiful the pearl looks when worn. Strong luster gives the pearl depth, brightness, and a clean reflective surface. Next should be color - whether you're looking for a solid jet-black pearl, or Tahitians that shimmer with saturated overtones, saturated body colors and overtones help define the Tahitian pearl as a rare and stunning gemstone to own.
Look for sharp, mirror-like reflections
Look for dark to medium dark charcoal grey body colors with nicely saturated overtones
The most valuable Tahitian pearls combine rich body color with vivid overtone and high luster. Peacock and bright green overtones are especially popular.
Overtone intensity affects value more than darkness
Well-matched color increases desirability
High-quality Tahitian pearls show strong luster, relatively clean surfaces, and good overall balance in color and shape. While minor blemishes are normal, they should not distract from the pearl’s appearance.
Small surface marks are expected
Heavy spotting or dull areas reduce value
Yes, Tahitian pearls can be worn regularly when they have thick nacre and good surface quality. Simple designs like stud earrings, pendants, and bracelets are especially practical for daily wear.
Saltwater pearls are durable when properly cared for
Avoid contact with harsh chemicals
No. The natural color of Tahitian pearls does not fade with normal wear or exposure to light. Proper care helps preserve their luster and surface for many years.
Store separately to avoid scratches
Keep away from perfumes and cleaners
Tahitian pearls are often considered a strong value because of their larger sizes, natural dark colors, and limited growing region. Their individuality and range of overtones make them appealing to buyers looking for something less traditional.
Larger on average than Akoya pearls
Naturally colored, not treated
About the Author
Ashley McNamara, of PurePearls.com, is a GIA-certified expert in Pearls, Diamonds, and Colored Stones and widely recognized as “the expert’s expert” in the pearl industry. With over 20 years of experience, she contributed to the CPAA’s Pearls As One educational course and has been cited by major news outlets nationwide. Ashley's keen eye for color and luster make her a trusted source for classic and exotic pearls alike. Explore her bestselling collections here.
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