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What Look For and Why It Matters:
Luster = The Higher and Sharper the Luster, The More Valuable the Pearls
Surface Quality = Cleaner Pearl Surfaces are More Valuable Pearls
Pearl Type = Each Pearl Type Has Its Own Unique Traits, Beauty, Colors and Price Points
Nacre Thickness = Nacre Thickness Affects Long-Term Durability, Luster and Visual Beauty
Pearl Shape = Perfectly Round Pearls are the Rarest and Most Expensive
Seller Transparency = Look For Minimum 30-Day Return Policy, Specific Grading Details and Grading Reports and/or Appraisals
| What To Look For | Why It Matters |
| Luster | Luster Determines a Pearl's Beauty and Brilliance |
| Surface Quality | Fewer Blemishes = Prettier, More Durable Pearls |
| Pearl Type | Each Pearl Type Has Its Own Unique Traits, Beauty, Colors and Price Points |
| Shape | Round = Rarest and Most Expensive |
| Nacre Thickness
| Nacre Thickness Affects Long-Term Durability, Luster and Visual Beauty |
| Seller Transparency | Look For Minimum 30-Day Return Policy, Specific Grading Details and Grading Reports and/or Appraisals |
Buying pearls can feel overwhelming - from Akoya to Freshwater to South Sea, the options are endless. This guide will walk you step-by-step through how to buy pearls confidently, based on quality, budget, and your needs. Whether you're shopping for a pearl necklace, pearl earrings or a full set of pearls, these tips for buying pearls will help you to make an informed and satisfied choice. At Pure Pearls, we only purchase the top 5% of all pearl harvests, and all of our pearl jewelry is meticulously made by hand, to order.
Understanding these points is CRUCIALwhen learning tips for buying pearls online, and what to look for when buying pearls.
To understand more about how pearls are valued, and in what order those attributes are ranked, visit our: Expert's Guide To Pearl Grading
So, you’ve decided that you’d like to buy a fine pearl necklace (or a pair of earrings), but now you’re stuck: what kind of pearl necklace should you buy??
Each one of these pearl types has its own unique beauty, size ranges, pearl color and budget parameters. If you are interested in learning more about each pearl type and what makes them special, read this article:
👉Pure Pearls’ Insider’s Guide to Cultured Pearl Types
For now, let’s deal with the most frequently asked question first as it deals with the two most popular (and easily confused!) white pearl types: Akoya and Freshwater pearls.
This is probably the most common question I get from customers new to pearls; this quick breakdown between the two pearl types should help make the decision easier for you.
For a more in depth discussion about choosing between saltwater Akoya or Freshwater pearls, I highly recommend reading our full breakdown between the two pearl types, and which pearls you should buy online:Ultimate Guide to Freshwater vs Akoya Pearls
Other major pearl types are black Tahitian pearls, and White or Golden South Sea Pearls – what I call our “Exotic Pearls”. Each pearl type is wonderfully distinctive, with its own traditional pearl colors, size ranges and unique beauty.
Choosing the right vendor should balance pearl selection, quality, price and above all, excellent Customer Service.
While Mikimoto definitely does carry beautiful quality pearls, doing a little bit of homework can save you THOUSANDS by avoiding the high premiums charged by luxury brands without sacrificing quality.
On the flip side, shopping by price alone without knowing what you’re buying (or whom you’re buying it from!) is a one-way ticket to frustration. Taking the plunge on an anonymous overseas vendor could net you a strand of potato pearls for way more than they’re worth and no way to return them.
Fine pearl jewelry is a gift that’s meant to touch the heart. The vast majority of the time, these gems are going to be a very special surprise for a birthday, anniversary, graduation or Holiday event.
Because this purchase is such a special one, there are a few considerations to take into account before settling on a vendor to purchase from. A few Dos and Don’ts to remember before taking the plunge:
DO: Select a vendor that specializes in cultured pearls
DO: Verify a reasonable Return and Exchange policy
DO: Research pearl grading and understand pearl value factors
DON'T: Get stuck on brand names
DON'T: Purchase for price alone
DON'T: Get mislead by inflated pearl grades. AAAA++ is not a real grade!
As a dedicated jewelry professional who's mission in life is to bring beauty and love into the world (it might be cheesy, but I couldn't care less!), I really want for all my clients to understand that there are some vendors out there that really care about their pearl jewelry's legacy, and others that are dedicated to just selling as much as they can without a thought towards the love story that every piece of jewelry given to someone else conveys. So in my view, it’s essential to choose a reputable jeweler that offers quality, transparency, and trust. Whether you're learning how to buy real pearls or comparing pearl sellers, here's a quick guide to the most common buying options:
Pure Pearls offers TONS of advice and real-life pictures of our pearls actually being worn on models so you know how your pearls are going to “measure up” when they arrive.
Generally the most popular sizes are within the 7.0-9.5mm range, which are considered the most traditional and versatile pearl sizes to buy.
The larger the pearls get (all other attributes like Luster, Shape, and Surface Quality being equal), the more valuable they are. Each pearl type has its own pricing tiers, and much like diamonds, you can expect prices to increase exponentially with every millimeter size increase. The price difference between a 7.0-7.5mm Akoya pearl necklace, and a 9.0-9.5mm size is quite large.
A good rule of thumb is to expect a 30-50% increase in price with each millimeter size up you go.
This pricing issue is due to a variety of factors, with rarity chief among them.
Larger pearls require more time acquiring thicker nacre layers in the oyster, and can only be grown one at a time. This combined with the higher risks the farmer undertakes when growing cultured pearls results in higher prices. Smaller Freshwater pearls on the other hand, can grow up to 50 pearls per mussel, contributing to lower prices.
Check out: The Ultimate Pearl Size Comparison Guide
DEFINITELY visit: Pure Pearls Ultimate Guide to Necklace Lengths to learn everything you could ever need to know about pearl necklaces – from the timeless classics to more modern styles!
Pro-Tip: The most popular and versatile pearl necklace length is called the 18-Inch “Princess Length” pearl necklace.
This is considered the “Modern Classic” length, and should come to rest about 1.5 to 2.0-inches below the hollow of the throat – suitable for a wide variety of necklines and outfits.
The best type depends on your style, budget, and occasion:
Akoya pearls – Classic white strands with high luster; ideal for bridal or formal wear.
Freshwater pearls – Affordable, versatile, and available in many sizes and colors.
Tahitian pearls – Exotic dark tones, from peacock green to silver, often larger in size.
South Sea pearls – Rare, large pearls in white or golden tones; luxury investment pieces.
Pure Pearls offers each type, sourced directly from leading pearl farms to ensure exceptional quality at 1/5th the price of traditional retail.
Read More: What are the best pearls to buy?
These are the 5 most important value factors that determine the overal value of a pearl.
Luster – Sharp, bright reflections indicate superior quality.
Surface Quality – Fewer blemishes mean higher value.
Shape – Round pearls are most valuable, but baroque shapes offer unique character.
Size – Larger pearls are rarer and typically more expensive.
Type & Origin – Each has distinct beauty and price points.
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) cites a total of 7 Pearl Value Factors size, shape, color, luster, surface quality, nacre quality(surface), and matching. Color doesn't generally impact value(personal preference) and matching is a given for any high quality piece of pearl jewelry.
Read More: Insider's Guide to Pearl Grading
6.5–7.5 mm – Classic, understated, ideal for petite frames or everyday wear.
7.5–8.5 mm – Timeless and versatile; suits most occasions.
8.5–9.5 mm – Bold, luxury look; more rare and valuable.
10 mm+ – Statement pieces; often South Sea or Tahitian.
Pure Pearls provides size guides and on-model photos so you can visualize each size before you buy.
Read More: Pearl Sizes: The Ultimate Guide
The Tooth Test – Real pearls feel gritty when lightly rubbed against your teeth.
Luster Check – Real pearls reflect light sharply; fakes look dull or glassy.
Drill Holes – Clean, sharp edges and nacre layers are visible on real pearls.
Certification – Buy from a reputable seller who discloses type, size, and origin.
Every Pure Pearls purchase includes full grading details and a 90-day return policy.
Read More: Fake vs. Real Pearls
Online buying offers better selection and value when shopping trusted specialists. Look for:
Detailed grading information and clear photos.
Transparent return and exchange policies.
Direct sourcing and farm relationships for authenticity.
Pure Pearls sells exclusively online, passing savings from direct farm sourcing to the customer.
Read More: Where to Buy Pearls
Choker (16 in.) – Elegant and close-fitting.
Matinee (20–24 in.) – Perfect for business or casual looks.
Opera (28–36 in.) – Versatile; can be doubled for a layered style.
Ashley the resident pearl expert of Pure Pearls consistently suggests 18" as the ideal length of pearl necklace for most women.
Read More: Choosing a Pearl Necklace Lengths
I hope this short article was helpful in illuminating the ins and outs of buying cultured pearls online today. If you have any questions, always feel free to reach out to one of our experts via chat, email or phone.
About the Author
Ashley McNamara, of PurePearls.com, is a GIA-certified expert in Pearls, Diamonds, and Colored Stones and widely recognized as “the expert’s expert” in the pearl industry. With over 20 years of experience, she contributed to the CPAA’s Pearls As One educational course and has been cited by major news outlets nationwide. Ashley's keen eye for color and luster make her a trusted source for classic and exotic pearls alike. Explore her bestselling collections here.
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Luxury Grade Pearls.
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The true value of pearls lies in their quality. We sell true luxury grade pearls without traditional luxury store markups.
We source the worlds finest pearls and sell direct to customers like you. You can expect to save about 1/2 the cost of traditional retail.
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