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Guide to Pearl Shapes

Which Pearl Shape Should I Choose? (Quick Answer)

“Choose round pearls for the classic look and strongest resale value. Choose baroque or drop pearls for character and better price per millimeter.” – Ashley McNamara, Pure Pearls

 

Pearl Shapes - The Expert's Guide

While everyone knows and understands that the “classic” round pearl is considered to be the epitome of pearl perfection, there is an incredibly unique and beautiful range of shapes out there for pearl lovers to consider.

A pearl’s shape is one of the major Value Factors to consider when evaluating and pricing pearls, and is one of the more important aspects of the pearl’s value. There are 7 main Pearl Shape categories to know about, and each one has even more variations within that category providing nearly endless variety and beauty.

How Do Pearls Get Their Shapes?

How Pearls Get Their Shapes

A pearl’s shape is due to the pearl’s formation process. It begins with a single 1.0mm square piece of mantle tissue or a perfectly round mother-of-pearl bead nucleus inserted into the mollusc. Upon insertion, a pearl sac is formed around the irritant and the mollusk begins secreting concentric layers of crystalline nacre around the nuclei, eventually forming a pearl.

Essentially the bead nucleus is supposed to act as a perfectly round template for the oyster to lay nacre around, increasing the chances of harvesting a spherical pearl.

The amazing variety of shapes that occur with each harvest are due to subtle disruptions in the layering process inside the mollusk. This can be as something as tiny as an air bubble, to more invasive issues like parasites or bits of organic material that the animal has filtered into its interior body interrupting the delicate process, eventually resulting in the wonderful array of Off-Round, Drop-Shape and Baroque pearls.


Pearl Shapes At A Glance

There is an endless variety of pearl shapes for buyers to choose from, however pearl specialists group pearl shapes into 8 major groups:

  • Round
  • Near-Round / Off-Round
  • Button-Shape
  • Drop-Shape
  • Baroque
  • Circled Baroque
  • Asymetrical / Free-Form Baroque
  • Keshi Pearls

Below is a look at each pearl shape, what distinguishes them from any others and what makes them valuable.


Round / True Round Pearls

Learn About Pearl Shapes: Round Pearls
  • Rarest and most valuable of all pearl shapes, accounting for less than 10% of each yearly pearl harvest.
  • Round pearls can be found in every major pearl type
  • The largest Round pearls can attain sizes of up to 21.0mm and command premium prices
  • Pearls that are famous for their perfectly Round shapes are Japanese Akoya pearls (including Certified Hanadama Akoya pearls), and are called “Eight Way Rollers”.

Near Round / Off-Round Pearls

What are Off-Round pearls
  • Pearls feature slight to definite deviations from true spherical shape are called “Off-Round” pearls
  • Generally appear more oval-ish to egg-shaped upon up-close inspection
  • Easy to spot these pearls by simply laying them flat on a plain white piece of paper and slowly rolling the strand back and forth while watching for a wobble. You can also hold these up about 6-inches away from your eyes, and rotate the strand slowly in front of your eyes to pick up on the variations.
  • Off-Round pearl shapes can occur in every pearl type, but are most prevalent in cultured Freshwater pearls from China.
  • Off-Round pearls offer excellent value for pearl lovers. Pearls will appear round-ish to the eye, but with substantially lower price points than their perfectly round cousins.

Button-Shape Pearls

Learn About Button-Shape Pearls
  • Typically will feature a flattened to slightly curved bottom with a domed top
  • In a full necklace, pearls will appear round-ish to the eye
  • Button-shape pearls are excellent for wearing as earrings – the flat bottoms are very comfortable on the ear lobe when used as pearl earrings.
  • Button pearls also offer great value for pearl lovers looking for a bargain, with considerably less expensive premiums over a pearl strand consisting of true Round pearls

Drop-Shape Pearls

About Drop-Shaped Pearls
  • Smooth, symmetrically-shaped pearls ranging from romantic tear-drop shapes to ovals
  • Represents the second-rarest pearl shape. Accounts for approximately 20% of each pearl harvest
  • Perfectly matched pairs of Drop-Shape pearls are rare, especially in larger sizes
  • Highly collectible, Drop-Shape pearls add an artistic flair and whimsy to any jewelry design, especially baroque pearl earrings and pearl pendants
  • Very high rates of luster and orient are often visible due to their shape variations
  • Drop-Shaped Tahitian and South Sea Pearl Necklaces are a visually stunning addition to any jewelry collection, often at substantially lower premiums than True Round Necklaces in the same pearl type

Baroque Pearls

What are Baroque Pearls
  • Baroque pearls are the most common pearl shape, representing up to 40% of each pearl harvest
  • Baroques feature an irregular shape and are very unique … like snowflakes, no two baroque pearls are exactly the same.
  • Actual shapes vary widely and can include a multitude of unique features and growth characteristics such as knobs, tips, circles, etc.
  • High rates of luster and orient are often visible due to uneven nacre accumulation causing very thick layers in various locations on the surface
  • Baroque pearl necklaces offer a fantastic opportunity to own a one of a kind Tahitian Pearl Necklace, South Sea or Akoya pearl necklace at a fraction of the cost of perfectly round necklace layouts.

Circled Baroque Pearls

What are Circled Pearls
  • Dubbed “Circles of Love” in the 1970s as a way to market circled pearls
  • Characterized by their trademark concentric rings running around the circumference of the pearl
  • Circles can be sparing, with just a few noticeable on the surface, or the pearl can be completely covered
  • Usually very high rates of luster, orient and overtone saturation can be seen on the surfaces of circled pearls. This is due to the very thick layers of crystalline nacre compaction around the bead nucleus on each pearl
  • Circles are an instantly recognizable growth characteristic, not an inclusion or blemish.

Free Form Baroque Pearls

Learn About Pearl Shapes: What are Free-Form Baroque Pearls?
  • Highly asymmetrical shaped pearls that are extremely unique - each one is a one-of-a-kind creation.
  • Often Free-Form Baroque pearls will feature a “watered silk” texturized surface that is quite appealing
  • Traditionally Free-Form Baroque pearls were used to create jewelry art. Jewelers would use these free-wheeling pearls to create animals, flora and fauna and mythical creatures from legend to turn into valuable brooches, pendants and necklace enhancers.
  • Free-Form Baroque pearls can be found in every pearl type, from exotic Tahitians to Japanese Akoya pearls and colorful Freshwater pearls.

Keshi Pearls

Keshi Pearl Shape Example
  • Name “keshi” means poppy seed in Japanese; these are also called poppy seed pearls or seed pearls.

  • Keshi pearls can be found in bothFreshwater and saltwater mollusks.

  • Typically small in size with wide variation in shape due to lack of a nucleus, and comesin a range of colors and shades.

  • Known for exceptional luster and orient because they are composed of solid nacre.

  • Keshi pearls can occur when the oyster rejects and expels the nucleus before the pearl finishes forming. They may also form if the nucleus fractures into two sacs, creating one or more pearls without a nucleus.

  • End result: solid pearls made entirely of crystalline nacre.


How Pearl Shape Affects Value

Shape: Round is the most difficult shape to culture, making it the rarest cultured pearl shape and—if all other factors are equal—also generally the most valuable. There are exceptions, though. Well-formed pear, oval, or baroque (irregularly shaped) cultured pearls are also prized by pearl lovers. - GIA.edu

Shape Look / Aesthetics Rarity Value Impact Best For

Perfect Round

Classic and Formal

High. Perfectly Round Pearls are less than 10% of any Pearl Harvest.

Highest Price Ranges

Classic Pearl Necklaces, Stud Earrings, Bridal and Anniversary Gifts

Near-Round

Classic Looks, Day to Day Wear

Medium Range. Near-Round Pearls account for 20-30% of any Pearl Harvest.

High Value if Clean Surfaces

 

Classic Pearl Necklaces, Stud Earrings, Day to Day and Office Wear

Button-Shape

Slightly Dome-Shaped or Visually Off-Round Pearls upon Up-Close Inspection. Classic Looks, Larger Pearl Types can be Formal

Medium Range. Similar to Near-Round Shapes, Buttons are Counted in the 20-30% Near-Round Harvest Totals.

Better Prices per Millimeter Size

Large Luxury Strands, Stud Earrings

Drop-Shape (Includes Ovals)

Slightly Rounded Ovals to Romantic Tear-Drop Shape

 

Medium to High Range. Single Drops are Medium, Large Drops in Matched Pairs are Premium Priced

Medium to High. Premium Prices in Large Matched Pairs

Dangle Pearl Earrings, Pendants and Drop-Shaped Strands

Baroque Shapes

Organic and Irregular. May Include Nobs, Tips, Bumpy Surfaces and Slight Circles

Common as Baroque Pearls Compose up to 50% of Any Pearl Harvest. Scarce Due to Lower Popularity

Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster

Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants

Circled Baroque Shapes

Baroque Shapes but with Slight to Heavy Concentric Circled Grooves Lining the Circumference of the Pearl

Included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest

Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster

Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants

Free-Form Asymmetical Baroque Shapes

 

Totally Free-Form, with No Symmetry. Very Organic Shapes

Included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest

Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster and Shape, which are often used by designers and artisans to create unique jewelry designs.

Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants

Keshi Pearls

Totally Free-Form, with No Symmetry. Very Organic Shapes, Sometimes "Petals"

Scarce, but included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest

Collector's Level. Medium to High Depending on Luster and Shape.

Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants

Shape: Perfect Round

Look / Aesthetics: Classic and Formal

Rarity: High. Perfectly Round Pearls are less than 10% of any Pearl Harvest.

Value Impact: Highest Price Range

Best For: Classic Pearl Necklaces, Stud Earrings, Bridal and Anniversary Gifts

 

Shape: Near-Round

Look / Aesthetics: Classic Looks, Day to Day Wear

Rarity: Medium Range. Near-Round Pearls account for 20-30% of any Pearl Harvest.

Value Impact: High Value if Clean Surfaces

Best For: Classic Pearl Necklaces, Stud Earrings, Day to Day and Office Wear

 

Shape: Button-Shape

Look / Aesthetics: Slightly Dome-Shaped or Visually Off-Round Pearls upon Up-Close Inspection. Classic Looks, Larger Pearl Types can be Formal

Rarity: Medium Range. Similar to Near-Round Shapes, Buttons are Counted in the 20-30% Near-Round Harvest Totals.

Value Impact: Better Prices per Millimeter Size

Best For: Large Luxury Strands, Stud Earrings

 

Shape: Drop-Shape (Includes Ovals)

Look / Aesthetics: Slightly Rounded Ovals to Romantic Tear-Drop Shape

Rarity: Medium to High Range. Single Drops are Medium, Large Drops in Matched Pairs are Premium Priced  

Value Impact: Medium to High. Premium Prices in Large Matched Pairs

Best For: Dangle Pearl Earrings, Pendants and Drop-Shaped Strands

 

Shape: Baroque Shapes

Look / Aesthetics: Organic and Irregular. May Include Nobs, Tips, Bumpy Surfaces and Slight Circles

Rarity: Common as Baroque Pearls Compose up to 50% of Any Pearl Harvest. Scarce Due to Lower Popularity  

Value Impact: Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster

Best For: Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants

 

Shape: Circled Baroque Shapes

Look / Aesthetics: Baroque Shapes but with Slight to Heavy Concentric Circled Grooves Lining the Circumference of the Pearl

Rarity: Included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest

Value Impact: Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster

Best For: Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants

 

Shape: Free-Form Asymmetical Baroque Shapes

Look / Aesthetics: Totally Free-Form, with No Symmetry. Very Organic Shapes

Rarity: Included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest

Value Impact: Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster and Shape, which are often used by designers and artisans to create unique jewelry designs.

Best For: Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants

 

Shape: Keshi Pearls

Look / Aesthetics: Totally Free-Form, with No Symmetry. Very Organic Shapes, Sometimes "Petals"

Rarity: Scarce, but included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest

Value Impact: Collector's Level. Medium to High Depending on Luster and Shape.

Best For: Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants


Pearl Shape FAQs

Which Pearl Shape Is Most Valuable?

  • Round with high luster and clean surfaces

  • Excellent matching across a strand increases price

 

What Pearl Shape Is The Rarest?

  • Perfectly round pearls only account for less than 10% of any pearl harvest.

  • Beautifully matched Tear-Drop shaped pearl pairs (especially in large, rare sizes) fetch a premium.

 

Are Baroque Pearls Real and Valuable?

  • Yes, they are cultured pearls with organic shapes

  • High luster baroques offer excellent price per millimeter

 

What Shapes Are Best For Earrings?

  • Drop and button-shaped pearls are perfect for comfortable wear and flattering lines

  • Round studs are the timeless option

 

Does Shape Affect Price More Than Size?

  • No, with pearls the attributes of size and luster move price more than shape

  • Within a size range, round pearl shapes tend to cost more

 

What Is Keshi And Why Is It Priced Differently?

  • Nacre-only pearls without a bead nucleus, also called "poppy seed pearls"

  • Scarcer supply and unique shapes appeal to collectors

 

What Shape Is Best For A First Necklace?

  • Round or near-round for a classic look

  • Choose the luster you love first, then shape

 

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Author

About the Author

Ashley McNamara

Ashley McNamara, of PurePearls.com, is a GIA-certified expert in Pearls, Diamonds, and Colored Stones and widely recognized as “the expert’s expert” in the pearl industry. With over 20 years of experience, she contributed to the CPAA’s Pearls As One educational course and has been cited by major news outlets nationwide. Ashley's keen eye for color and luster make her a trusted source for classic and exotic pearls alike. Explore her bestselling collections here.

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