“Choose round pearls for the classic look and strongest resale value. Choose baroque or drop pearls for character and better price per millimeter.” – Ashley McNamara, Pure Pearls
“Choose round pearls for the classic look and strongest resale value. Choose baroque or drop pearls for character and better price per millimeter.” – Ashley McNamara, Pure Pearls
While everyone knows and understands that the “classic” round pearl is considered to be the epitome of pearl perfection, there is an incredibly unique and beautiful range of shapes out there for pearl lovers to consider.
A pearl’s shape is one of the major Value Factors to consider when evaluating and pricing pearls, and is one of the more important aspects of the pearl’s value. There are 7 main Pearl Shape categories to know about, and each one has even more variations within that category providing nearly endless variety and beauty.
A pearl’s shape is due to the pearl’s formation process. It begins with a single 1.0mm square piece of mantle tissue or a perfectly round mother-of-pearl bead nucleus inserted into the mollusc. Upon insertion, a pearl sac is formed around the irritant and the mollusk begins secreting concentric layers of crystalline nacre around the nuclei, eventually forming a pearl.
Essentially the bead nucleus is supposed to act as a perfectly round template for the oyster to lay nacre around, increasing the chances of harvesting a spherical pearl.
The amazing variety of shapes that occur with each harvest are due to subtle disruptions in the layering process inside the mollusk. This can be as something as tiny as an air bubble, to more invasive issues like parasites or bits of organic material that the animal has filtered into its interior body interrupting the delicate process, eventually resulting in the wonderful array of Off-Round, Drop-Shape and Baroque pearls.
There is an endless variety of pearl shapes for buyers to choose from, however pearl specialists group pearl shapes into 8 major groups:
Below is a look at each pearl shape, what distinguishes them from any others and what makes them valuable.
Name “keshi” means poppy seed in Japanese; these are also called poppy seed pearls or seed pearls.
Keshi pearls can be found in bothFreshwater and saltwater mollusks.
Typically small in size with wide variation in shape due to lack of a nucleus, and comesin a range of colors and shades.
Known for exceptional luster and orient because they are composed of solid nacre.
Keshi pearls can occur when the oyster rejects and expels the nucleus before the pearl finishes forming. They may also form if the nucleus fractures into two sacs, creating one or more pearls without a nucleus.
End result: solid pearls made entirely of crystalline nacre.
Shape: Round is the most difficult shape to culture, making it the rarest cultured pearl shape and—if all other factors are equal—also generally the most valuable. There are exceptions, though. Well-formed pear, oval, or baroque (irregularly shaped) cultured pearls are also prized by pearl lovers. - GIA.edu
| Shape | Look / Aesthetics | Rarity | Value Impact | Best For |
| Perfect Round | Classic and Formal | High. Perfectly Round Pearls are less than 10% of any Pearl Harvest. | Highest Price Ranges | Classic Pearl Necklaces, Stud Earrings, Bridal and Anniversary Gifts |
| Near-Round | Classic Looks, Day to Day Wear | Medium Range. Near-Round Pearls account for 20-30% of any Pearl Harvest. | High Value if Clean Surfaces
| Classic Pearl Necklaces, Stud Earrings, Day to Day and Office Wear |
| Button-Shape | Slightly Dome-Shaped or Visually Off-Round Pearls upon Up-Close Inspection. Classic Looks, Larger Pearl Types can be Formal | Medium Range. Similar to Near-Round Shapes, Buttons are Counted in the 20-30% Near-Round Harvest Totals. | Better Prices per Millimeter Size | Large Luxury Strands, Stud Earrings |
| Drop-Shape (Includes Ovals) | Slightly Rounded Ovals to Romantic Tear-Drop Shape
| Medium to High Range. Single Drops are Medium, Large Drops in Matched Pairs are Premium Priced | Medium to High. Premium Prices in Large Matched Pairs | Dangle Pearl Earrings, Pendants and Drop-Shaped Strands |
| Baroque Shapes | Organic and Irregular. May Include Nobs, Tips, Bumpy Surfaces and Slight Circles | Common as Baroque Pearls Compose up to 50% of Any Pearl Harvest. Scarce Due to Lower Popularity | Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster | Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants |
| Circled Baroque Shapes | Baroque Shapes but with Slight to Heavy Concentric Circled Grooves Lining the Circumference of the Pearl | Included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest | Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster | Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants |
| Free-Form Asymmetical Baroque Shapes
| Totally Free-Form, with No Symmetry. Very Organic Shapes | Included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest | Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster and Shape, which are often used by designers and artisans to create unique jewelry designs. | Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants |
| Keshi Pearls | Totally Free-Form, with No Symmetry. Very Organic Shapes, Sometimes "Petals" | Scarce, but included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest | Collector's Level. Medium to High Depending on Luster and Shape. | Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants |
Shape: Perfect Round
Look / Aesthetics: Classic and Formal
Rarity: High. Perfectly Round Pearls are less than 10% of any Pearl Harvest.
Value Impact: Highest Price Range
Best For: Classic Pearl Necklaces, Stud Earrings, Bridal and Anniversary Gifts
Shape: Near-Round
Look / Aesthetics: Classic Looks, Day to Day Wear
Rarity: Medium Range. Near-Round Pearls account for 20-30% of any Pearl Harvest.
Value Impact: High Value if Clean Surfaces
Best For: Classic Pearl Necklaces, Stud Earrings, Day to Day and Office Wear
Shape: Button-Shape
Look / Aesthetics: Slightly Dome-Shaped or Visually Off-Round Pearls upon Up-Close Inspection. Classic Looks, Larger Pearl Types can be Formal
Rarity: Medium Range. Similar to Near-Round Shapes, Buttons are Counted in the 20-30% Near-Round Harvest Totals.
Value Impact: Better Prices per Millimeter Size
Best For: Large Luxury Strands, Stud Earrings
Shape: Drop-Shape (Includes Ovals)
Look / Aesthetics: Slightly Rounded Ovals to Romantic Tear-Drop Shape
Rarity: Medium to High Range. Single Drops are Medium, Large Drops in Matched Pairs are Premium Priced
Value Impact: Medium to High. Premium Prices in Large Matched Pairs
Best For: Dangle Pearl Earrings, Pendants and Drop-Shaped Strands
Shape: Baroque Shapes
Look / Aesthetics: Organic and Irregular. May Include Nobs, Tips, Bumpy Surfaces and Slight Circles
Rarity: Common as Baroque Pearls Compose up to 50% of Any Pearl Harvest. Scarce Due to Lower Popularity
Value Impact: Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster
Best For: Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants
Shape: Circled Baroque Shapes
Look / Aesthetics: Baroque Shapes but with Slight to Heavy Concentric Circled Grooves Lining the Circumference of the Pearl
Rarity: Included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest
Value Impact: Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster
Best For: Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants
Shape: Free-Form Asymmetical Baroque Shapes
Look / Aesthetics: Totally Free-Form, with No Symmetry. Very Organic Shapes
Rarity: Included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest
Value Impact: Low to Medium and Medium-High Range Depending on Luster and Shape, which are often used by designers and artisans to create unique jewelry designs.
Best For: Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants
Shape: Keshi Pearls
Look / Aesthetics: Totally Free-Form, with No Symmetry. Very Organic Shapes, Sometimes "Petals"
Rarity: Scarce, but included with the Baroque Shape Category, up to 50% of Harvest
Value Impact: Collector's Level. Medium to High Depending on Luster and Shape.
Best For: Unique Statement Strands, Unique Earrings and Pendants
Round with high luster and clean surfaces
Excellent matching across a strand increases price
Perfectly round pearls only account for less than 10% of any pearl harvest.
Beautifully matched Tear-Drop shaped pearl pairs (especially in large, rare sizes) fetch a premium.
Yes, they are cultured pearls with organic shapes
High luster baroques offer excellent price per millimeter
Drop and button-shaped pearls are perfect for comfortable wear and flattering lines
No, with pearls the attributes of size and luster move price more than shape
Within a size range, round pearl shapes tend to cost more
Nacre-only pearls without a bead nucleus, also called "poppy seed pearls"
Round or near-round for a classic look
About the Author
Ashley McNamara, of PurePearls.com, is a GIA-certified expert in Pearls, Diamonds, and Colored Stones and widely recognized as “the expert’s expert” in the pearl industry. With over 20 years of experience, she contributed to the CPAA’s Pearls As One educational course and has been cited by major news outlets nationwide. Ashley's keen eye for color and luster make her a trusted source for classic and exotic pearls alike. Explore her bestselling collections here.
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