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Japanese Akoya vs Chinese Freshwater Pearls

Akoya vs Freshwater Pearls (Quick Answer)

“Pick Akoya if you want the classic white look most customers prefer: sharper luster, rounder shapes, and timeless 18 inch strands. Pick Freshwater if you want the best value, wider color options, and durable everyday pieces.”
- Ashley McNamara, Pure Pearls

 

Compare and Contrast with a Pearl Expert

If you're shopping for a first pearl necklace or timeless gift, we recommend an Akoya pearl strand for its unmatched luster and round beauty. For everyday wear or a more affordable gift, opt for high-grade Freshwater pearls — they offer fantastic value with plenty of style. At PurePearls.com, we offer both Akoya and Freshwater pearl necklaces - all hand-selected for quality and backed by our expert guarantee.

If you're asking which is better — Akoya or Freshwater — the answer really depends upon your style and budget. Akoya pearls offer classic white pearl perfection; Freshwater pearls offer exceptional value and durability.

This article was written for you to answer one of the Top 5 Frequently Asked Pearl Questions of All Time:

Should I buy Freshwater or Akoya pearls?


Akoya vs. Freshwater Pearls At A Glance

I’m going to let you cheat here, and answer your question RIGHT NOW, then break down the Why’s and How’s throughout the article in more serious detail. But for those of you that just want a short and sweet answer, here it is:

Choose Freshwater Pearls If:

  • You’re worried the pearls will be handled roughly and/or lost. The lower price points will make them relatively easy to replace, and these are HIGHLY recommended as “first pearls” gifts for young girls and ladies.
  • Your budget is around $300 - $500 but you still want a pretty white pearl necklace – the White Freshwater pearls will hit all the right notes for a good price.
  • Slight to moderate variation in pearl shape and a softer pearl glow doesn’t matter that much as long as the pearls give off the overall impression you want.
  • You’re looking for an “every day” strand of pearls that can stand up to hot days, children’s sticky fingers, perfume spritzing, an office meeting and more.

Shop Our Most Loved Freshwater Pearl Necklaces

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Choose Akoya Pearls If ...

Reasons to Buy Akoya Pearls
  • Only that high-end, classic “Mikimoto” style of pearl necklace will do.
  • Perfectly round pearl shapes, and a Very High to Excellent pearl luster matter to you.
  • Your budget is $350 and up to get the Classic White Pearl Necklace you really want.
  • You’re looking for a very special keepsake strand of pearls that will be treasured and cared for well over the years, and possibly handed down to the next generation.
  • The pearls are meant to be worn in “nicer” settings i.e., weddings, dinner parties, office meetings, church, holidays, family get-togethers, etc.

Explore Our Akoya Pearl Necklace Collection

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Akoya vs. Freshwater Pearls: Pearl Shape Differences

Pearl Shape Chars: Freshwater vs Akoya Pearls

 

The biggest MAJOR difference between the Freshwater and Akoya pearl type is … SHAPE.

  • Akoya pearls are known for being perfectly round in shape. In the pearl industry, they're known as "Eight Way Rollers" because Akoya pearls will roll smoothly and evenly in all eight directions when placed on a flat surface.
  • Freshwater pearls have a much, much larger variety of shapes, the most common and distinctive of them being either potato shapes, or off-round / oval shapes. The higher-up in quality these pearls get, the rounder the pearl shapes will be.

Akoya Pearl Shapes

AA+ vs AAA Quality Akoya Pearl Shapes are Both Perfect Rounds

Even very close-up inspection and comparison between the highest grades of Akoya pearls will reveal that both qualities offer perfectly round pearls, with near-perfect matching for shape, size, body color, overtone and luster.

  • AA+ Quality Akoya Pearl Shape: Perfect Round
  • AAA Quality Akoya Pearl Shape: Perfect Round
  • Hanadama Quality Pearl Shape: Perfect Round

Freshwater Pearl Shapes

Comparing Freshwater Pearl Shapes by Quality Grades
  • AA+ Quality:  Visibly Off-Round to Oval and Egg Shapes, Moderate Variation in Matching Pearl to Pearl Throughout a Necklace Layout.
  • AAA Quality:  Slightly Off-Round to Near Round Shapes, Slight to Moderate Variation in Pearl Matching Throughout a Layout.
  • AAAA Quality:  Round to the Eye, Less than 3% Variance from True Round. Very Slight to Almost No Variation in Pearl Matching Throughout a Necklace Layout.

 

Akoya vs Freshwater Pearls: Luster Differences

What is Pearl Luster? Comparing Saltwater Akoya vs Freshwater Pearl Types

The inner strand above is a AAA Quality Akoya pearl necklace, showing their perfect roundness, high-gloss luster and impeccable matching. The outer strand is a AAA Quality Freshwater pearl necklace showing slightly diffused, softer luster, slightly off-round shapes and very good matching.

Luster is the #1 attribute that makes or breaks pearls as a precious gemstone, and one of the most easily quanitifiable just by looking at them.

To be perfectly honest, it is just a plain fact that most pearl buyers will prefer the mirror-like, glossy luster of the Akoya pearl. In every way, the Akoya pearl's luster just fits the definition of classic white pearl jewelry. For the vast majority of pearl jewelry buyers they'll find that the high reflectivity, light return and shiny luster of the Akoya pearl fits everything they're looking for in a pearl necklace or pair of pearl earrings. High status, luxury-level pearls that will heighten every outfit and occasion.

That said ... I think there’s an idea that Freshwater pearls aren’t as “nice” as saltwater Akoya pearls. It can be kind of correct in that the Freshwater aren't as highly valued as the Akoya, and don't have the same attributes as what the Akoya are famous for, which is that “ball-bearing” shine and perfect roundness. Freshwater pearls displaya lovely, inner “glow” that is unique, and certainly has plenty of takers. Between the two pearl types however, most customers prefer the luster of the Akoya pearl.

 

What Does Akoya Pearl Luster Look Like?

Examining Akoya Pearl Luster

 

Japanese Akoya pearls are gorgeous ... they're been popularized throughout the world as the classic white pearl, having been the first perfectly round cultured pearls introduced into the jewelry market in 1912 by Kokichi Mikimoto.

The ideal of that bright shine, and perfection of matching from pearl to pearl throughout their layouts has been enshrined in the modern public consciousness as what pearls "should" look like.

Their trademark luster is often described as "ball-bearing" or "mirror-like" ... it is very bright, with a very high rate of light return on the surface of the pearl, and objects reflected in their surfaces are anywhere from fairly to incredibly detailed depending on the quality of the pearls.

The Akoya pearls with the highest caliber of luster are the famed Hanadama Akoya pearls, which are Akoya pearls that are certified by specialized pearl grading laborotories in Tokyo, Japan as displaying the highest levels of luster, iridescent orient and the thickest nacre layers. These pearls are individually certified as full hanks, matched pairs for pearl earrings and pearl bracelets, and each strand or pair of pearls is accompanied by its own PSL gemological certificate. To learn more about these lustrous and popular pearls, visit our #1 ranked article:

The Ultimate Guide to Hanadama Pearls

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What Does Freshwater Pearl Luster Look Like?

Examining Freshwsater Pearl Luster

 

Pure’s AAAA Quality have very fine Luster, but it's different than the bright, glossy shine of the Japanese Akoya (especially a Hanadama-level Akoya)... this pearl type’s luster is subtler, more of a glow  that appears to emanate from within the pearls themselves.

As discussed later in the article, this softer, more satiny shine is due to the pearl's structural composition, which is 100% solid crystalline material.

Light striking and penetrating the surface of the pearl has much farther to travel when returning to the viewer, breaking up and dispersing through millions of layers of crystalline platelets, and creating the visual phenomenon of depth and glow.

 

Akoya vs. Freshwater Pearls: Head to Head Comparison

Below is a quick and easy chart for those of us who love it fast and easy to compare and contrast which pearl type is better to buy: Freshwater or Akoya? We'll compare the most important value factors of both pearl types in one simple chart so you can make an informed, easy decision.

Akoya Pearls
  • Luster = Mirror-like, sharp and crisp
  • Shape = Perfectly Round
  • Color = White, silver-blue, gold and dyed black

Freshwater Pearls

  • Luster = Soft, Glowing and Slightly Diffused
  • Shape = Slightly Off-Round to Ovalish
  • Color = White, Pink, Peach, Lavender and Black (dyed)

 

Pearl Features Akoya Pearls Freshwater Pearls

Luster

Mirror-Like, Sharp and Crisp

Soft, Glowing and Slightly Diffused

Shape (typical)

Perfectly Round, Eight Way Roller Shape

Near-Round to Off-Round, Ovalish

Colors

(average)

White, Silver-Blue (natural), Gold (natural) and Black (dyed)

White (natural), Pink (natural), Peach(natural), Lavender (natural), Black (dyed)

Ideal For

Classical Elegance, Birthdays, Holidays and Anniversaries

First Time Buyers, First Pearls Gifts, Bridesmaids and Everyday Wear

Price Ranges

$300 - $10,000 or more

$200 - $6,000 and up


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Freshwater vs. Akoya Pearls: Pearl Blemishes

Akoya and Freshwater pearls both have their own distinct blemishes (also known as inclusions). Below are some photos that illustrate the most common blemishes you’ll see on each pearl type.

Note that pearl inclusions are HARD to photograph, so some smaller marks have been enlarged and sharpened to make them more visible for this article.

Both pearl type’s inclusions are generally:

  • Very Small to Tiny in Size
  • Visible Only Upon Close Inspection (6-Inches or Less)
  • White or Colorless
  • Do Not Impact the Durability of the Pearl

For these reasons, I think selecting a pearl necklace based on inclusion types is not recommended, and is the very last thing I would personally consider on the list of attributes when deciding the two pearl types. That said, it’s still instructive to view the images so you know what to expect!

For Akoya pearls, you’ll mainly notice pin prick blemishes, lighter or darker areas of organic conchiolin build up visible just under the surface crystal, and small, white wrinkles in the surface nacre.

If you want to know more about Akoya pearl blemishes and inclusions, visit:

The Ultimate Insider's Guide to Akoya Pearl Grading

 

What Akoya Pearl Blemishes Look Like

 

Freshwater Pearl Inclusions are mostly dull white "chalky spots" and subtle ridges on the pearl surfaces.

For a more detailed breakdown of the Freshwater pearl's inclusions, I highly recommend reading this article:

The Ultimate Insider's Guide to Freshwater Pearl Grading

Freshwater Pearl Inclusion Types: Ridges

How Are Akoya And Freshwater Pearls Farmed?

Freshwater pearls are farmed in mussels in lakes and rivers, mostly in China. They're tissue-nucleated,meaning they are solid nacre, more durable, and come in a wider range of natural shapes, sizes, and pastel colors.

Akoya pearls are grown in saltwater oysters, mainly in Japan. They’re bead-nucleated and known for their perfectly round shape, sharp mirror-like luster, and classic white or cream colors.

Akoya Pearl Farming Facts

Saltwater Akoya pearls are what we call “bead nucleated”, and are farmed primarily in the colder Pacific oceans of Japan.

A bead-nucleated pearl is formed when a perfectly round shell bead is surgically implanted into an oyster. This bead acts as a template, guiding the oyster to form a pearl with a round shape as it coats the bead in layers of nacre.

The Akoya pearl oyster is the smallest pearl-bearing saltwater oyster currently being used to create pearls today. It can only accommodate one or two bead nuclei at a time, and after the implantation surgery, the pearl is left to grow for a period of 18 months to two years ... the longer the better, as this allows the pearl to acquire thicker nacre layers.

Cross section of Akoya pearl nacre diagram

 

This internal pearl structure translates into some (pretty cool) things you should know:

  • Originating in Japan, these bead-nucleated cultured pearls are famous for being perfectly round in shape.
  • Fine Akoya pearls feature incredibly sharp, and highly reflective Luster. Very fine Akoya are like looking into a convex mirror and display extremely detailed reflections – often you can see your face smiling back at you, along with other surrounding objects.
  • Due to their perfectly round shapes, cultured Akoya pearls have a reputation for near-perfect matching. Akoya pearl strands will feature little to no variation from pearl to pearl throughout any pearl necklace or bracelet.
  • Akoya pearls must be properly cared for to keep their crystal looking bright and shiny. These pearls are sensitive to oils, perfumes, smoke, chlorine and other chemicals found in our environment. Wipe them down with a damp, soft cloth every time after wearing to remove residues from the pearls' surfaces.

Freshwater Pearl Farming Facts

Freshwater pearls from China are traditionally “tissue nucleated”. They are grown in man-made ponds and lakes throughout China, typically on small family-owned farms.

This means that tiny, 1.0mm square pieces of mantle tissue are inserted into small incisions made throughout the soft body of the host mussel. These pieces of donor tissue serve as organic nuclei that stimulate pearl sac formation, and eventually, form our beloved, colorful Freshwater pearls.

As the Freshwater mussel begins to create the pearl, it envelops the mantle tissue nucleus in a pearl sac and the donor tissue square inside slowly begins to degrade. This will continue throughout the 2-3 year formation period, until nothing remains in the core of the pearl …

Basically, it creates a pearl made up of 100% solid crystalline nacre (so they're very, very durable little gems).

Freshwater pearl mussels can be nucleated up to 25 times on each side of the shell, so a potential pearl harvest from even a single mussel absolutely dwarfs that of any other pearl type.This larger harvest volume accounts in large part for their less expensive prices.

 

Cross section of Freshwater pearl nacre diagram

 

This means a few (also cool) things you should know about:

  • Freshwater pearls are the closest in pearl composition that you can get to a natural pearl formed on its own in the wild.
  • Freshwater pearls are EXTREMELY durable, and if cared for properly, will retain the original color, luster and orient for decades to come.
  • Freshwater pearl luster will feature a softer, more subtle glow than that of their saltwater cousins due to the way in which light reflects and refracts off the various layers of crystal.
  • With no round inner “template” bead nucleus to work with, the Freshwater pearl mussel still does a pretty great job of producing smooth shapes that are often round to the eye.
  • Chinese Freshwater pearl farms produce around 1000 tons annually of pearls vs 25 tons for their Akoya pearl counterparts. This simple harvest estimate makes fine Akoya pearls thousands of times rarer than any Freshwater pearl on the market today, and thus more expensive.

Freshwater vs. Akoya Pearls: What Is The Most Valuable Pearl?

A lot of us are stunned when you first encounter the rather large difference in pricing between saltwater Akoya and Freshwater pearls. It can range from $150 to thousands of dollars depending on the pearl jewelry in question.

Pricing Issues Between Freshwater and Akoya Pearl Jewelry

This AAA Quality, 32-Inch, 8.0-8.5 Akoya Pearl Necklace retails for over $5,000.00 and was recently completed for a Custom Design customer. A comparable necklace created in our 8.5-9.0mm AAAA Quality Freshwater pearls would run around $1,800.00 (and you'll find similar price discrepancies in pearl earrings, bracelets, rings and other kinds of jewelry)

Which pearl type you finally choose to purchase is a balancing act between Price, Luster and Shape among other factors like perceived value and personal aesthetics.

 

Why Akoya Pearls Reign Supreme

 

The Japanese Akoya pearl is known the world-over to be THE classic White Pearl Necklace.

These pearls will meet everyone’s expectations for fine surface quality, pearl shape, mirror-like luster and pearl matching, whether it's a pearl necklace or pair of classic pearl stud earrings.

Saltwater Akoya pearls are the higher-end, more elegant choice for pearl lovers. If these pearls will be well-cared for, worn at special events and are going to be a keepsake that’s possibly handed down to the next generation, then I recommend the purchasing the Akoya, as these pearls never disappoint when our little black box is opened.

Fine Japanese Akoya Pearls are THE Classic White Pearl Type

 

Because Akoya pearls have become "The Standard" when it comes to the classic white pearl necklace, and meet higher quality standards for pearls (particularly in the luster and shape category, and ESPECIALLY in the Hanadama Akoya pearl grades), they are more highly valued by consumers and the professional jewelry market, and are able to command a higher price over the softer luster, .

Expect Akoya pearl jewelry to start around $250 for the smallest pair of pearl earrings up to $20,000 for the largest, rarest and highest quality Hanadama Akoya pearl necklaces. The average price points will be around $500 to $2,500 to purchase our most popular and enduring Akoya pearl jewelry.  

I find the majority of my customers agree that the Akoya pearl just has that “certain something” … that the pearls have a more elegant presentation overall. At Pure Pearls, you can expect that all of our Akoya pearl jewelry will be meticulously crafted by hand, to order, to meet your highest expectations of luxury, quality and attention to detail. Our commitment to quality craftsmanship and caring customer service ensures that your new Akoya pearls will forever become a cherished part of your family's story.

If you're interested in learning more about the ins and outs of buying Akoya pearls, visit my #1 Google Ranked article:

The Ultimate Guide To Buying Akoya Pearls

 

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Freshwater Pearls Are The Best For Budget Savvy Shoppers

Freshwater pearls are an ideal choice for many buyers new to pearl jewelry. These pearls are less expensive than their Akoya cousins, have a bit more variety in jewelry styles and colors, and are overall more durable than the Japanese Akoya.

Why Choose Freshwater Pearls

 

Freshwater pearls are - for the most part - the more “casual” pearl choice, with lower price points (often about ¼ to ½ the price of their saltwater counterpoints), higher durability and more variation in shape, and a softer, more satiny luster.

I usually recommend choosing a Freshwater pearl necklace for those on a lower budget but want that “classic” pearl necklace look without breaking the bank, OR who want to give a special “first pearls” gift to that special someone and not worry too much about the gems being mis-handled by younger wearers.

Pearl shoppers can expect prices to range from $200 (and even lower at commercial jewelers or beading supply stores) up to $5,500 or more for very high-end, luxury Freshwater pearl designs.

So far, we've only discussed White Freshwater pearls, but pearl buyers should also know that Freshwater pearls come in a variety of natural colors like Pink, Peach, Lavender and dyed Black hues. If you'd like to know more about your options, visit my article: The Ultimate Buyer's Guide To Freshwater Pearls 

 

Pearl FAQs: Freshwater vs Akoya

1) Which is better for a first necklace — Freshwater or Akoya?

Akoya wins for a classic, high-luster look; Freshwater wins for value and variety.

  • Choose Akoya: mirror-like luster, round shapes, formal to daily wear

  • Choose Freshwater: budget-friendly, pastels available, great everyday choice

  • Pure Pearls offers both with transparent grading and returns

2) How do luster and surface compare?

Akoya shows crisper reflections; Freshwater has a softer glow.

  • Akoya: higher average luster, tighter roundness, cleaner sorting

  • Freshwater: modern grades show strong luster, some baroque options

3) What size should I buy?

Most buyers look best in the 7.5–8.5 mm range.

  • Akoya: 6.5–7.5mm classic; 7.5–8.5mm premium everyday; 8.5mm+ statement

  • Freshwater: 7–8.5mm everyday; 9–10.5 mm bold value

4) How do Akoya & Freshwater prices compare?

Freshwater costs less at the same size; Akoya commands a premium.

  • Freshwater: strong value from entry to fine grades

  • Akoya: higher price for roundness and luster; bridal favorite

  • Pure Pearls is farm-direct to keep pricing competitive

5) Which is better for weddings and gifting?

Akoya is the traditional bridal choice; Freshwater is ideal for budget sets.

  • Akoya: crisp white, elegant overtones, pairs with formal wear

  • Freshwater: affordable bridesmaid sets, pastels for personal style

6) Which is more durable for daily wear?

Both are durable with proper care.

  • Wipe after wear, avoid chemicals and heat

  • Restring strands periodically; store flat in a soft pouch

 

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Author

About the Author

Ashley McNamara

Ashley McNamara, of PurePearls.com, is a GIA-certified expert in Pearls, Diamonds, and Colored Stones and widely recognized as “the expert’s expert” in the pearl industry. With over 20 years of experience, she contributed to the CPAA’s Pearls As One educational course and has been cited by major news outlets nationwide. Ashley's keen eye for color and luster make her a trusted source for classic and exotic pearls alike. Explore her bestselling collections here.

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