Pure says: The Glitz. The Glamour. The Absolute Swoon!
Jewelry via Bonhams Auction House, 2014
All photos courtesy of Alain Truong, jewellery and art history blog
This STUNNING natural black pearl and diamond pendant was designed by Germain Bapst (1853–1921) and Lucien Falize (1839–1897) in the late 19th century is a sublime example of Belle Époque jewelry craftsmanship.
Created around 1880, this exquisite piece features a lovely interplay of fine naturally black pearls, diamonds, and gold, showcasing the technical mastery and creative ingenuity for which these celebrated artisans were renowned. Each element in the pendant is a testament to their shared vision of elevating jewelry to an art form, with the pearls imparting an ethereal softness and the diamonds offering a scintillating counterpoint.
The goldwork, attributed to the renowned Royal Jeweler Wartski, underscores the era's affinity for intricate, delicate designs. The setting is a seamless blend of technical precision and aesthetic grace, with the gorgeous, colorful black pearls carefully balanced against the brilliance of diamonds.
Jewelers Bapst and Falize were pioneers in reviving historical styles, and their work often reflected influences from Renaissance and medieval motifs. This piece is a timeless representation of the Belle Époque spirit, capturing the era's devotion to elegance, refinement, and the celebration of Mother Nature's natural beauty.
The Diamond and Natural Pearl set from Lady Wolverton's parure, created by Frédéric Boucheron between 1896 and 1902, is a breathtaking showcase of Belle Époque elegance and craftsmanship.
The set features meticulously matched fine natural pearls of exceptional luster, interwoven with brilliant diamonds, creating a stunning balance of sparkle and radiance.
Boucheron's expertise in integrating natural pearls into his designs is evident in the fluid arrangement of these precious gems, which cascade seamlessly within the necklace's graceful curvature. The diamonds, set in intricately designed mounts of gold and silver, catch and refract light, amplifying the soft glow of the pearls, while underscoring the richness of the materials.
This exceptional piece, now held in a private collection and exhibited courtesy of the Albion Art Institute, embodies the artistic ideals of its time—elevating jewelry design into a realm of unparalleled sophistication and artistry. The set is not merely an adornment but a historical narrative, encapsulating the opulence and grandeur of an era that revered the art of haute joaillerie.
The black pearl necklace crafted by Carlo and Arturo Giuliano around 1890 exemplifies the exquisite artistry and design sensibilities of the Giuliano atelier during the late Victorian era. This remarkable piece features a harmonious combination of iridescent, colorful natural black Baroque pearls and intricate enamel work, all set in rich gold.
The Giuliano family's mastery of enamel techniques is evident in the delicate patterns that adorn the necklace, providing a striking contrast to the shimmering rainbow Orient of the black pearls. The use of high-karat gold not only enhances the necklace's opulence but also reflects the Giulianos' commitment to quality and their penchant for Renaissance Revival aesthetics.
Currently held in a private collection and exhibited courtesy of the Albion Art Institute, this necklace stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Carlo and Arturo Giuliano. Their work is celebrated for its intricate craftsmanship and the seamless fusion of historical motifs with contemporary design elements. This particular piece not only showcases their technical prowess but also offers insight into the luxurious tastes and artistic trends of the late 19th century. The necklace's provenance and exhibition at the Albion Art Institute further underscore its significance as a masterpiece of period jewelry.
The "Belle Époque" five-strand natural pearl necklace, dated from 1910, is a lustrous example of early 20th-century elegance and craftsmanship. Comprising five meticulously matched strands of natural pearls, the necklace exudes a harmonious blend of opulence and refinement.
The pearls' subtle gradation and uniformity reflect the jeweler's dedication to selecting only the finest specimens, ensuring a consistent luster and hue throughout the piece. This magnificent 5-Strand Natural Pearl Necklace is finished with a platinum clasp—a metal prized during the Belle Époque for its strength and ability to hold delicate settings.
These exquisite pearls glow with a creamy body color, enhanced with shimmering Rose Overtones adding a delicate blush to their appearance. The softly glowing luster of each pearl creates a mesmerizing play of light across each of the strands. Such uniformity and brilliance in natural pearls are an exceptional find, reflecting the jeweler's expertise and dedication to achieving perfection in this elegant masterpiece of a necklace.
Currently part of a private collection and exhibited courtesy of the Albion Art Institute, this necklace is featured in the "Paris, City of Pearls" exhibition at L'ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts.
Henri Vever's 1905 Chrysanthemum Brooch is a masterpiece of Art Nouveau jewelry, exemplifying the era's embrace of natural forms and innovative materials. Crafted from gold and blackened silver, the piece is adorned with diamonds and features delicately shaped leaves rendered in green plique-à-jour enamel, a technique that imparts a translucent, stained-glass effect. The ornament's design centers on chrysanthemum blooms, achieved through the use of Baroque stick-shape American Freshwater Mississippi pearls.
This exquisite brooch or bodice ornament was originally owned by the first director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, highlighting its significance within the artistic community of the time. The chrysanthemums are detachable, allowing them to be worn as brooches or hair ornaments, showcasing Vever's ingenuity in combining beauty with functionality.
The piece has been preserved in its original case, maintaining its pristine condition without restoration, a testament to the craftsmanship and care bestowed upon it. Currently part of the Faerber Collection, this ornament stands as a remarkable example of Vever's contribution to the Art Nouveau movement and the innovative use of materials in jewelry design.
There's much, MUCH more in Alain's post on the new exhibit going through March of 2025 in Paris. If you can't go to Paris to catch it, then I highly recommend checking out Alain's blog. If you CAN go to Paris, then send me all your pictures haha!
XO,
Ashley M.
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