When shopping for Akoya pearl jewelry, our #1 recommendation is to always focus on getting pearls with the highest, sharpest and most reflective luster first, even if you have to step down in pearl size to get it. GIA (the Gemological Institute of America) states that luster is the most important attribute pearls can possess, and will make or break pearls as a precious gemstone.
Akoya pearls in particular are famous for their mirror-like or “ball bearing” luster, meaning that the best Akoya pearls should be highly reflective with excellent light return and sharp, crisp edges on reflected light sources with as little blurring or fuzzing on the edges as possible.
Smooth, clean surfaces help boost the luster of the pearls; the smoother the pearls’ surfaces are, the easier time light will have flowing over the surface and reflecting back at the viewer. You also want blemish-free surfaces as they are aesthetically pleasing, and help maintain the long-term durability of the pearls.
So: luster first, surface quality second, and then other attributes can be considered, such as size.
Traditionally, the most popular Akoya pearl sizes are going to range from 6.5mm through 8.5mm, with the 7.0-7.5mm being considered the most popular, versatile and traditional. The largest and rarest Akoya pearl size will be 9.0-9.5mm and very rarely, 9.5-10.0mm, and will fetch premium prices.
After your preferred pearl size is chosen, other variables like overtone can be selected. Rose and silver overtones are the most popular overtone choices for buyers as these tones are most complimentary to a variety of skin complexions.
Finally, Akoya pearls are known for their near-perfect matching pearl to pearl throughout their necklace or bracelet layouts as well as earrings. Look for Akoya pearl strands that have little to no variation in body color, overtone, luster levels, surface quality levels, size and shape.