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If you’re getting ready to buy pearls,
it’s important that you know what you’re
getting yourself into, so that you can recognize
a deal when you see one. Price and quality are
not as simple as shape or size, or even color.
In actuality, there are 7 major elements to grading
a pearl for quality and price. On top of this,
different types of pearls have different grading
systems that should also not be ignored when shopping
for pearls.
The 7 most important elements to grading a pearl
are:
- Luster – this is the first and most
important definition for a pearl’s beauty.
Luster should be your primary focus when judging
quality. To recognize finer luster, look at
the clarity of images that are reflected in
the pearl’s surface. The closer to a mirror
image you see, the better the luster. Pearls
with fine luster also seem to glow warmly from
within.
- Size – the larger the pearl, the rarer
it is. The size of a pearl is measured across
its diameter, and range from 8mm to the scarce
18mm.
- Shape – the rounder a pearl is, the
rarer and more valuable it is. The goal is for
a perfectly round pearl, though there is much
more to pearls than an ideal orb. For example,
Baroque pearls have a more linear shape which
is quite popular. Therefore, you will want to
look for categories of pearls in either “Classical”
or “Baroque”.
- Surface – the more flawless the surface
of the pearl is, the higher it will be valued.
However, a flawless pearl only comes about once
in about every million, as pearls are the result
of a natural process, and an oyster will usually
leave some sort of unique mark on the finished
pearl.
- Color – unlike the other factors, color
has little influence on the actual value of
a pearl, except in the case of popularity. Essentially,
the color of the pearl you desire is a matter
of personal taste. Traditionally, there is a
rather consistent demand for the classic silvery
white pearls and the glowing gold shades. The
rarest and most desired are the white “rose”
colored pearls.
- Weight – the weight of a pearl is not
always provided, however finer jewelers will
include it among their descriptions, especially
in the case of larger pearls. Pearls are usually
measured in carats, grains, or momme. Cultured
pearls are generally weighed in momme, and natural
pearls in grains.
- Natural/cultured – this is the difference
between pearls that are found at sea, and those
grown in pearl farms
On top of these 7 rules of thumb, there are also
established systems of grading that you can use
to make your life much easier when you’re
selecting a pearl at a jeweler. These include
the AAA-A System, and the A-D System (also called
the Tahitian System).
- The AAA-A System – This system uses
a grading scale from AAA to A, with AAA being
the highest grade.
- The A-D System (Tahitian System) – grades
pearls on a scale from A to D, with A being
the highest, and anything below D being considered
unacceptable for jewelry use.
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