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Pearl Grading: Getting to Know the Quality of a Pearl

If you’re getting ready to buy pearls, it’s important that you know what you’re getting yourself into, so that you can recognize a deal when you see one. Price and quality are not as simple as shape or size, or even color.

In actuality, there are 7 major elements to grading a pearl for quality and price. On top of this, different types of pearls have different grading systems that should also not be ignored when shopping for pearls.

The 7 most important elements to grading a pearl are:

  • Luster – this is the first and most important definition for a pearl’s beauty. Luster should be your primary focus when judging quality. To recognize finer luster, look at the clarity of images that are reflected in the pearl’s surface. The closer to a mirror image you see, the better the luster. Pearls with fine luster also seem to glow warmly from within.
  • Size – the larger the pearl, the rarer it is. The size of a pearl is measured across its diameter, and range from 8mm to the scarce 18mm.
  • Shape – the rounder a pearl is, the rarer and more valuable it is. The goal is for a perfectly round pearl, though there is much more to pearls than an ideal orb. For example, Baroque pearls have a more linear shape which is quite popular. Therefore, you will want to look for categories of pearls in either “Classical” or “Baroque”.
  • Surface – the more flawless the surface of the pearl is, the higher it will be valued. However, a flawless pearl only comes about once in about every million, as pearls are the result of a natural process, and an oyster will usually leave some sort of unique mark on the finished pearl.
  • Color – unlike the other factors, color has little influence on the actual value of a pearl, except in the case of popularity. Essentially, the color of the pearl you desire is a matter of personal taste. Traditionally, there is a rather consistent demand for the classic silvery white pearls and the glowing gold shades. The rarest and most desired are the white “rose” colored pearls.
  • Weight – the weight of a pearl is not always provided, however finer jewelers will include it among their descriptions, especially in the case of larger pearls. Pearls are usually measured in carats, grains, or momme. Cultured pearls are generally weighed in momme, and natural pearls in grains.
  • Natural/cultured – this is the difference between pearls that are found at sea, and those grown in pearl farms

On top of these 7 rules of thumb, there are also established systems of grading that you can use to make your life much easier when you’re selecting a pearl at a jeweler. These include the AAA-A System, and the A-D System (also called the Tahitian System).

  • The AAA-A System – This system uses a grading scale from AAA to A, with AAA being the highest grade.
  • The A-D System (Tahitian System) – grades pearls on a scale from A to D, with A being the highest, and anything below D being considered unacceptable for jewelry use.

 

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