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Pearls are available in just about every color
that you can imagine. Jewelers call the range
of colors that pearls offer, a “palette
of colors”. These can be white, yellow,
golden, pink, blue, black, and just about any
color you can think of in between! When referring
to the color of the pearl, it is the body of the
pearl that is considered to be the primary shade.
While colors are most commonly silver-white,
and most rarely black, almost any color in between
can also occur. Moreover, even in the most common
and least common tints, there are color overtones
which reflect across the surface of a pearl. In
fact, when you look at, or describe a pearl, you
– just like the jeweler – are most
likely to describe the combination of the color
itself, along with the overtone colors, to provide
a clearer image of what the individual pearl is
really about. For example, a pearl that is described
as a “pearl with a pink overtone”
will be the description of a silver-white pearl,
with pinks that reflect on it.
Pearls also have a coloring effect called “orient”,
which refers to any shimmering, iridescent colors
that swirl, move, and glitter, as the light changes,
or as the pearl is moved. This effect, like overtone,
is a result of the reflecting of light throughout
the various nacre layers that compose the pearl.
The color of a pearl is produced by the oyster
as the pearl is being formed. Though the color
of the pearl has very little impact on the actual
quality of the pearl, the perceived beauty of
it has an effect on its value. Trends and rarity
of color play on the “beauty is in the eye
of the beholder” rule, and change the cost
of a given pearl based on its color, rather than
its quality.
The culturing of pearls, and the ever-evolving
technologies and understandings that go along
with it, have introduced a great number of new
colors to the pearl marketplace which would never
have been available solely from natural saltwater
pearls. While, for a time, it wasn’t uncommon
for fads to drive pearl sellers to artificially
paint or dye their pearls, this has gone out of
style – at least until the next fad…
When selecting the right pearl color to buy,
the most basic guideline you should follow –
next to overall personal taste – is matching
the pearl to the skin tone of the wearer. For
example, women who have fair or light colored
skin will usually feel that pearls with rose overtones flatter
their skin tone the best. Women who tan
easily or who have darker skin will usually
be complimented best by silver overtones.
If you are buying pearls for someone else, the
color should be based on the personal preference
of the wearer, as opposed to your own taste. This
is because pearls, in their uniqueness, also tend
to be gems about which wearers feel quite particular.
If possible, have the future wearer try on the
actual pearls before buying them, to see how they
look. If the gift is a surprise, work with what
you know of the recipient’s taste, and skin
tone…along with the recommendations of a
knowledgeable salesperson.
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