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Fine pearls
last a lifetime and are very much like memory
boxes. Pearls can tell a story of countless cherished
moments and can be passed on from generation to
generation.
The most important aspect in choosing pearls is
knowing if they are high quality and knowing how
to tell the difference. Evaluating cultured pearls
is much like comparing quality in diamonds or
fine gems because differences in quality affect
the aesthetic appeal and cost of pearls. Comparing
differences in quality of cultured pearls is conceivably
more important than in diamonds because quality
of pearls determines how long they will retain
their beauty. Pearls of poor quality can lose
their beauty in just a few months, whereas high
quality pearls can last a lifetime. Pure Pearls
only offers pearls of the finest caliber. Pearls
do not have a universal grading system like diamonds.
Pure Pearls uses the most commonly and internationally
used A, A+, AA, AA+, and AAA grading system. Pearls
of AAA are recognized as gem-quality with flawless
complexion, very round shape, and intense luster.
How to Choose
Fine Pearls
Pearls are very alluring and hold a quality that
both define elegance and natural beauty. There
are more varieties and availability of pearls
today than ever before. The “cultured pearl”
now rivals with fine diamonds, sapphires, emeralds,
and rubies.
Today most pearls are cultured, meaning that the
mollusk is purposely inserted with an irritant
or “nucleus” from which it creates
a pearl. A better way to think of the difference
between natural pearls and cultured pearls is
to think of the natural pearl as a result of the
mollusk working alone and the cultured pearls
as a product of nature being helped by science.
Cultured pearls are not “fake” like
many people may think. The culturing process takes
from two to three years and is a very delicate
process. The pearl farmers have little control
on what the pearl will look like or if the mollusk
will reject the nucleus. Not all pearls are fine
quality or even desirable at all. The end result
is ultimately a consequence of nature.
Best quality pearls are determined by luster,
nacre thickness and quality (the outer layer),
color, surface perfection, shape, and size. The
biggest factor of pearl quality is nacre thickness
and quality which determines how long the pearl
will last. Nacre thickness determines the longevity
of the pearl and nacre quality determines how
light reflects through the layers of the pearls.
High luster and iridescence come from high quality
nacre and any pearl with these characteristics
has quality, thick nacre. When judging nacre look
for uniform iridescence, intensity of luster,
cracks and peeling, estimate thickness near the
drill hole between the nacre and the shell bead
(nacre is lighter). Pearls are very thick with
at least .5 mm on all pearls, thick with at least.5mm
on most pearls, medium with between .35 and .5
mm on most pearls, and thin with .25 mm or less
on most pearls.
Luster is also important and one of the first
factors to notice. Luster is an intense brightness
that illuminates from within the pearl rather
than just being “shiny” like in imitation
pearls. The intense brightness results from light
being reflected throughout the numerous layers
of nacre. Quality pearls will have a sharp contrast
between the brightest area where direct light
is hitting the pearls and the shaded area creating
an illusion of a “ball within the pearl.”
Check for luster by examining them under a fluorescent
lamp and rolling them from side to side to examine
uniform luster. Examine pearls over a light gray
or white material (never black) because it is
harder to see the true quality of the pearl.
Pearl color is also important. When choosing pearls
note their body color and overtones. The most
desirable and more rare white pearls have “rose”
colored overtones. Cream colored pearls are more
affordable because they are less rare. Also, pearls
can have tones rated in intensity. Darker toned
pearls are more desirable and expensive compared
to lighter toned pearls. Many natural body colors
are available in pearls including white, black,
gray, blue, gold, pink, and green. Distinctive
colored pearls are rarer and harder to find. Have
a qualified gemologist check the pearls to make
sure they have not been dyed, especially for costlier
pearls like the black or golden varieties.
Examine pearls’ surface for blemishes. Although
is best to check for most pearl characteristics
on a light background, it is best to check for
blemishes on a dark background. Check in both
intense and diffused light. No pearls are perfect
and small blemishes can be sacrificed for more
important quality like nacre and luster. Pearls
with higher luster conceal blemishes better.
When choosing pearls also consider shape. There
are three pearl shapes including symmetrical,
spherical, and baroque. The spherical is the rarest
and most desirable. Symmetrical pearls include
teardrop or pear-shaped pearls and are desirable
but usually less expensive than spherical pearls.
Baroque pearls are irregularly shaped and often
the least expensive.
Size should also be taken into consideration.
Larger cultured pearls are rarer and more expensive.
Akoya pearls over 7 ½ millimeters are much
more costly and prices dramatically rise with
each ½ millimeter over 8 millimeters. South
Sea and Tahitian pearls also have high increase
in price when size is over 15 millimeters.
One more factor to consider in pearls is the precision
in matching the pearl quality in a string of pearls.
It is important to take all of the above factors
in consideration when matching the pearls. Graduated
pearls also take careful matching. Pearl matching
affects the value of the jewelry because when
pearls are not matched properly it takes away
from the appearance of the jewelry. Also, make
sure the pearls are all drilled in the center
so they lay properly. Off-center drilled pearls
will not lay correctly and reduces the value of
the piece.
It is always important to get an independent laboratory
report when in doubt of pearl enhancements that
may have been employed to make the pearls appear
more valuable. Make sure the person appraising
the pearls is a Graduate Gemologist (GG) which
is the Gemological Institute of America’s
(GIA) highest award.
Other things to consider when purchasing pearls
include finding out what the merchant’s
return policy is. Make sure they have at least
a 30-day full refund policy.
Shop at Pure Pearls for easy and hassle-free purchasing.
We offer pearls of the highest quality, great
prices, and incredible customer service!
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